Method of designing corset abdominal supports



Nov. 6 1923. 11,473,241

, s. w. M CORMICK ET AL I METHOD OF DESIGNING CORSET ABDOMINAL SUPPORTS- Filed March 50. 1918 5 Sheets-Sheet I] Nov. 6, 1923. 1,473,2411

S. W. M CORMICK ET AL METHOD OF DESIGNING CORSET ABDOMINAL SUPPORTS Filed March 30, 18 I5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Nov. 6, H923; N 31,473,241

. s. w. MCCORMICK ET AL METHOD OF DESIGNING CORSET ABDOMINAL SUPPORTS Filed March 30. 1918 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 QM MAM,

set and is otherwise located .as follows: Commencing at the true waistline, one-half an inch inside front or clasp edge, measure diagonally downward nine inches to a point two inches inside front edge of the corset forsizes18 to 22, inclusive; and, similarly, in size 23, 99; inches; in size 24, 94, inches; in size 25, 9 inches; in size 26, 10 inches; in size 27 104 inches; in size28, 10-1,- inches; in size 29, 10%} inches;-in size 80, 11 in s ze 31, 11;; inches; in size 32,114 inches; in size 33, 112- inches; in size 34, 12 inches; in size 35, 12?, inches; in size 36, 12*}inches. On corsets of ordinary construction the foregoing measurements will locate point 3 below the lower end of the front clasp as shown in Fig.- 1'. Point (4) is also located adjacent to'the seam in question and is about two inches lower than point (3). A sheet of paper or other suitable material (P), Figure 2, is then placed over the corset and thepoints 1, 2, 3, 4, marked thereon, preferably by passing thumb tacks through the paper and through the points 1, 2, 3, 4, previously located on the corset.

After outlining the first general dimen: sions of belt on sheet of paper (P), Figure 8, draw line (c) Figure 4, parallel to and onehalf inch below base line (6), front endof line (6) being one-half inch inside front edge (0). The position of line (f) above and parallel-to baseline (6) is approxi mately one and one-half inches for the smaller sizes of belts, and as much as two and one-half inches for the-larger sizes. The distance of line above line (1)) must now be accurately noted by the designer in each instance as its final position isgoften changed, asnwill be hereinafter described. Lines (e) and (f) serve as guides in drafting the first lower outline (in) of the abdo'minal support. Line 6 indicates the position occupied by the-lower end of thestiiiem er-plate, when the lower front corner of section; A isbeing drafted. Line fis drawn across the lower part of section B beginning at a point about one-half inch inside the rear edge thereof and continuing to a point about one-half inch from the front edge of said section. V

A stiffener plate (g), made preferably of aluminum, is now positioned as in Figure 4 with its lower end (7th) on line (a) and front edge. (It) at point (a) one-half inch from line Outline 'lower front corner; along edges (It), (hit), thence continuing bottom line (is) to point (2). .Draw top curved line (1) The extreme depth of its curve below first diagram line (a) varies from one-half of one inch to one and one half inches, according to length. 'Draw grading-line (j) laterally acrossmiddle'ot three preliminary-pattern sections A, .B, and

inches C, on lines (16) and (17) preferably having section B wider and section (C) 'narrower than section A. r

In Fig. 4, g Y drawn laterally across sections C,'B and A. bisecting lines 17 -16 approximately halt way between the top line 2' and the bottom line 7a,commencing at line (i. and terminating at line a. p i 'i ii A good proportion for the widths of the sections of abdominal supports is to have section A one and one-half times, and section 13 twice as wide as section 'C, but these proportions need ,not necessarily be exact.

Life f, in Fig. 4, positively fixesthe height of curved line 70, in the first draft of the abdominal support pattern, and in the final drafting of the-lower line 8, Fig. 8, line f constitutes an accurate guide for determining the height of the curve at different tangents. Line 8 is always a free-hand line, and line is'so'placed on patterns of different sizes as to form a base from which 1 to estimate the height of the curvedline s on the final or master-pattern sections. Such a base to work from makes uniform and ac curate drafting of lower lines of abdominal supports possible. I I

In the process of designing, abdominal support, sections .must bear some definite relation to one another at one point, and

parts taken from, said sections, in the process of designing,-so alter the positions of the original top and bottom lines, with respect to each other after theoriginal pattern is separated into sections and said sections are modified that, until the present sysradin line is a strai ht line tem of working from said central grading line was perfected, pattern-designing was.

uncertain and inaccurate.

' Outline preliminary-pattern sectionsA, B,

C, Figure 5, on an additional sheetof paper, separated sufliciently to permit enlargements, and transcribe in proper places line (f). grading-line and points (it) "and Add fiVe-eighths of one, inch to rear edges of sectionsA and B. andone-half inch (M) to rear of section C for seam allowances. Measure three-eighths of one inch back from lower rear corner (99) of section B, and draw. line (0) from this point to upper rear corner (98) Similarly measure three-eighths'of an inch forward from lower front corner (96) of section C and draw line (0) from this point to upper front corner (94;). Lines (0), (O) are usually straight as shown, but are better in some models of corsets if slightly convex.

Mark points Figure 1, on cor set one-half inch above point (1) and onehalf inch below point l) and place ruler with edge in contact with these points,

and in front of line of attachment (40) of belt to corset. Draw corset so that the portion underneath the ruler lies flat andstraight. Note size and shape of that part to be taken off for goring; as follows: sizes 1822, inch; size 23, inch; size 2 1, 5; inch; size 25, inch; size 26,% inch; size 27, inch; size 28, 1,- inch; size 29, f inch; size 30, inch; size 31, inch; size 32, 3 inch; size 33, inch; size 3 ,2 inch; size 35, inch; size 36, 1 inch. Find similar amount on graduated guide, Figure 6, and place guide at this point over point (p) on section A, Figure 7, having upper part of front edge (77) of guide even" with upper part of rear edge (LL) of section, and draw outline. Similarly measure back from lower front corner (92) of sectionB, Figure 5, the same amount of goring (p), and, reversing guide, proceed. Figure 7, the same as with section A; Cut new front and rear outlines of master-pattern sections" A, B and C.

Mark points 31, 32, 33, Figure 8, on top.

grading and bottom lines of section (7, fiveeighths of an inch from front edge 102. l iikewise, mark points 31, 32, 3213 ontop, grading and bottom lines of section B, fiveeightbs of an inch from front edge 101. Lap rear edge 103 of section B at gradingline over front: edge 1020f section C to point and insert thumb tack (R) on grading-line five-sixteenths. of an inch from rear edge 103 of section B through both patterns into table. Similarly lap section A over section B at grading-line to point 32 and insert thumb tack on grading-line (j) five-siXtee-nths of an inch from rear edge 100 through both patterns into table. Adjust section 0 underneath section B to points 31. 35- and fasten with thumb tacks R to table.- Swing lower part of section A over section B to point and put thumb tack through both sect-ions into table. Check, and if necessary; alter the final position of line This is done by measuring against the distancebetween baseline 7) and original line (Fig. 4), a dis tance equal to one and one-half inchesplusone-half the amount the distance betweenpoints it ands exceeds eleven inches. The difference between these two measurements,

if any, is laid off above original line '7' of the assembl-ed-masterpattern section B (Fig. 8), anda new or final line f is drawn therethru parallel to original line Ordinarily taken from the lower part of'the meeting edges of sections A and B with each increase in size changes: the relative positions of sections A and B to each other, when positioned for final drafting of curved lower line Figure 8, of belt, said line (8), in small size belts intersects and passes above line (1) but the are aboveline (f) is lowered proportionately with each succeeding increase in length until, in the larger sizes, as shown in Figure9, it may be tangential to line (f) near the rear loweredge' of section B.

After the" bottom edges of the master-' pattern sections are thusobtained' the sections are turned about points 32 until the rear edges of sections A and B are over po ints-3l. The final line 5', defining the top edges of the. master-pattern sections, is drawn and the top edges of the sections are cut thereon. Line t is produced by drawing. era-substantially smooth continuous curve guideldbythe fragments of line i.

The" three: 1master-pattern sections thus prodaced may be used as the guides for cutting the support material into corresponding sections which are sewed together to produce a half-support such as shown in Fig. 10.

The graduated guide, Figure 6, was devised to overcome the lack of uniformity in curving the rear edge of section A and the front edge of section B of belts made by different designers, and even of those made by the same designer. By its use, patterns are evenly curved and correctly and uniformly gored according to size.-

In belts for small sizes'of corsets where the triangular additions (we), (on) Figure 7.. to meeting edges of sections B and C are wider than the gores (pp), (pp) taken from" the lower meeting edges of sections Atand B the front lower corners of the belt are raised above the positionf3, Figure 1, first diagramed for them on the corset. This is corrected in drafting patterns by marking said lower front corner belt positions on the corset from one-eighth to one-half of an inch lower (depending on; the difference in width between the segments uv), (to) added to sections C and B, and the gores (7210) (m9)- taken fromsections (Band :A) I

thanth'e belt is to occupy, and taking off a like amount 90, Figure9, from thetop of section .9. when drafting final upper line to make the upper (t) .of the belt. i v 1 lAdditions to sections C and B often cause the .top front corner QT of section A, Figure 9, to occupy a position too near the front edge (10), Figure 10, of the corset. This is corrected by cutting off the triangular segment Figure 9, from the front of section A, asfollows: Measure back from front upper corner 150 alongtop of section A. from one-eighth of ,one inch to one-half'of one inch as required, and from thence draw: a

convex line 95 downward to meet-the front line at a. point'l'lO, from two to four.

inches below the newfront corner 115.

In some modelsof corsets, the belts givebet'tcr results. if small curved triangular gores (41), 4-1) Figure 7, are taken from" the'meeting edges of the upper parts of sections B and C,'but care must be taken not part of the belt tight enough to bind. Y

Referring to Figure 7, for thin figures where thecrest of the ilium and particularly the anterior superior spine of the ili un is proportionately prominent compared with the adjacent abdomen. extra belt fullness should be added (5), (5), by slightly convexing the central meeting edges of sections B and C, to allow comfortable-additional' fullness over the hip bone. Referring to (3), Figure 1., the

inside the front edge however, must vary somewhat in proportion to the fullness of the-skirt of the corset and, in models in which the proportionate skirt fullness increases with size of corset.

' said lower frontcori'ier belt position should correspondingly recede.

While the lower maximum width of'the triangular additions (no), (on), Figure 7,

to the front'of'section G and the rear of sec tion B is given herein as three-eighths of an inch for all sizes of corsets, it is better in some models of. corsets to add wider segments, but, in so doing, the position of the lower front corner of the belt 3, Figure 1, must-be considered in' order that the belt be not made two long. 1 Also these triangular segments, if wider, raise the front of the belt and-must be allowed for in diagraming the position of point 3, Figure 1, on the corset. i

average lower front corner bel-t position is two inches This position,

In designing belts for figures where the full part of the abdomen is higher than nor- 1naland recedes abruptly, the normal position of a regular stock belt, as diagrained by points 1, 2, 3. l, Figure l, is markedon the corset, but wider gores"(pp), (pp), Figure 7, are taken from sections A and B,and the difference between such increased width and the width of gores in an average belt forthe j same corset is added to the distance between pointstu) and (a) Figure 8, iii-determining the final position of line 2 The belt V, FigurelO, may be attached comparativelyfarther forward in large sizes of corsets. than in small and medium sizes. Such belts are more satisfactory than those which are pro )ortiona-tely too long for their depth'g. Proportions for average models.

are those shown in Figures 8 and 9, which aredrawn to scale for sizes twenty and thirty-one respectively. z

W'hen properly designed and positioned in a corset, the front edge'(55) of. the middle or full part of the belt V, Figure 10, when stretched taut and raised slightly, should be.

a littleove'r'one-half of one inch back from thefront edge (c0) of the corset; In'corset abdominal supports thus produced the front lower portions thereof will usually be below the-lower ends of the front clasps of the corsets when said' abdominal. supports are attached to ordinary corsets.

Abdominal supports are designed to complement corsets, and it is always assumed that the corset willbe the proper size and style for the wearer, and that the waistline of the corset (6) Figure 1,;will be at her waistline, for, in designingbelts all downward measurements are taken from the waistline, and the belts in a corset which sets too high on the wearers figure, will not be low enough to give her the best results. 7

Referring to Figure 1, abdominal. support corsets give better 'ligures and greater coinfort to their wearers if their clasps (cow) and groin boning (y) are shorter below the waist than in ordinary corsets; as thisper linin' on suitable material a four sided fi l1 ure defined by four points plotted on a cor setindicating a grading "line on the figure, separating the figure into a plurality of preliminary-pattern sections, using .the preliminary-pattern sections to outline on another piece of material corresponding master-pattern sections which are modified'by seam and shaping allowances and indicating a corresponding grading line, cutting the side edges of the master-pattern sections, assem bling the master-pattern sections according to the grading line and with adjacent side edges overlapping, rotating the master-pattern sections about points on the grading line to alternately vary the over-lap at the top and at bottom thereof, and cutting the top and bottom edges of the master-pattern sections in the respective positions.

2. The method of designing a master-pattern for use in the production of intra-pelvic abdominal supports for corsets which includes the steps of outlining on suitable material a four sided figure defined by four points plotted on a half corset and having the upper and lower sides curved, dividing the figure by a grading line, separating the figure transversely of the grading line into a plurality of preliminary-pattern sections each section including a part of the gradin line, cutting from another piece of materia a corresponding set of. master-pattern sections whose longitudinal edges are defined by the preliminary-pattern sections and seam and shaping modifications, and which include corresponding grading line parts, assembling the master-pattern sections with the grading line parts overlapping at adjacent edges, and defining the upper and lower edges of the master-pattern sections while said sections are thus assembled.

3. The method of designing master-pattern sections with which to produce intrapelvic abdominal supports for corsets which consists in outlining on suitable material a four sided figure defined by datum points plotted on a half corset, dividing the figure by a grading line passing across its mid-section, separating the figure transversely of v its grading line into a plurality of preliminary-pattern sections each of which contains a part of the grading line there-across, transferring the preliminary-pattern sections including grading line to another sheet of ma terial and outlining the same thereon with modifying seam and shaping allowances at the sides, cutting the sides of the masterpattern sections along the sides of the modi' fied outlines, assembling the master-pattern sections with the grading line parts thereon overlapping at adjacent edges, alternately overlapping the upper and lower portions of the master-pattern sections by predetermined amounts, and shaping the opposite ends of the master-pattern sections in the alternate positions.

4. The method of producing intra-pelvic abdominal supports for use with corsets, which includes the steps of outlining on suitable material a four sided figure defined by four points plotted on a corset, defining a grading line across the figure, separating the figure into a plurality of preliminarypattern sections, using the preliminary-pattern sections to outline on another piece of material corresponding master-pattern sections which are modified by seam and shaping allowances and to define a corresponding grading line on such master-pattern sections, cutting the side edges of the masterpattern sections, assembling the master-pattern sections according to the grading line thereof and with adjacent side edges overlapping, defining the top and bottom edges of the master-pattern sections when thus assembled, cutting support sections from suitable support material on the final outlines of the master-pattern sections, and joining together sets of support sections in the relation of the assembled master-pattern sections'.

March 27, 1918.

SARA WEBER MGGORMICK. HUGH MALCOLM MoCORMICK. 

